Designer Menswear Brands Feel High Street Competition

Designer Menswear Brands Feel High Street Competition

It seems as if menswear is finally catching up with womenswear. If only in the sense that the high street is finally offering men spry and up-to-date collections of contemporary clothes, rather than the classic pleated trousers and double cuff shirt look of yesteryear.

The major fashion houses have been given a run for their money with all the new denim brands and cool sportswear labels that are popping up in hordes each season. And that men’s fashion hasn’t stood still is evident by the number of pages menswear glossies have dedicated to re-educating the male fashion palate. These days men, like women, don’t find it necessary to buy designer labels when the high street is offering the latest styles at agreeable prices.

Men have a simpler approach to designer fashion. Answer the question: “what is my X-factor?” and they will spend. But a garment better have something extra or it’s off the H&M. The successful houses this season were those that remained true to their DNA and displayed the quality and craftsmanship men demand from designer fashion.

The Milan shows were certainly a lesson in grace under pressure, and highlighted the reason why men should have to pay the full price for high fashion anyway. The retail climate is only exacerbated by not-so-covert attempts to woo emerging markets such as China and Russia and that one almost becomes nostalgic for the days before luxury goods became a global commodity.

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Miuccia Prada translated the new mood – as she always seems to – into her SS06 collection with the philosophy “experiencing luxury through simplicity.” Prada is leading the way for a new uncluttered feel in menswear. Sober colours, but not without a trick or trend, made the skinny trousers and sharp three-button suits seem new and fresh and like instant classics.

One of the few sexy collections from Milan was undoubtedly by Versace, who seems to have taken over where Tom Ford left off. Tropical silk-prints were worn with white trousers, as were jackets in bubblegum pink, lavender and baby blue. Still, even Donatella took it down an octane notch. Her new collection may make reference to art deco Miami, albeit with a more subtle and less complicated approach.

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