November 04, 2019 / By mobanmarket
A pink neckerchief that was worn in the first look of Lou Dalton‘s autumn/winter 15 collection brought a 60s vibe, compounded by the cropped and
tailored trousers and coat with an exaggerated lining. This was a recurring
theme, with jackets featuring pocket lining which peeked out from under
checked wool and layered outerwear. Detachable arms transformed jackets
into gilets, or as in the first look, an inner jacket featured a top layer
to make it functional yet also informal.
Astrid Andersen paraded a utility army of boys on her AW15 catwalk, with
berets, fur-lined ear flap caps and boxer-style outerwear that were
samurais at the ready. Black, salmon pink, maroon, forest green and white
where the main hues of this urban sportswear collection which was both
warrior and street chic. Backstage Andersen told Dazed: “It became a bit
militant in the end, I just wanted to move on. For me this season felt a
little bit more mature – I don’t know if that translated, but at least
that’s how I felt about it!”
Hardie Amies is first and foremost a tailor, and the brand under it’s
creative director Mehmet Ali showed tradition and modernity can mix and be
desirable in 2015. There was tailoring and knitwear, with a hint of
sportswear, but it was detailing like a climber’s tube rope morphed into
flannel suiting that was seen throughout the collection that struck a cord.
Fur-lined parkas hinted at a trekking expedition, but it was the
fabrications that made it stand out as heritage brand: luxurious wools,
boucle, checks and even teasel-brushed wool. This was tailoring for the
true English gentleman.
Christopher Raeburn took his AW15 collection to water, showing inflatable
coats, shark-print jackets and lifeguard inspired clothing. His utility
outerwear featured slogans, patchwork and modern technical detailing, but
his hand-writing was strong and evident and Raeburn is slowly carving out a
niche for himself. Bright boiler style jackets and fish-shaped accessories
added a fun element, however when the pieces are taken out of their fashion
context they are wearable, something that in London isn’t always the case.
Sibling on Saturday showed a fluo-pink collection that was bold and not
for the faint of heart. Frothy pink gelled hair, teddybears, faux fur and
chelsea boots – all in various shades of hot pink – adorned boys who’s
chiseled looks were in contrast to the feminine clothes. Strip away the
fashion and tongue-in-cheek parlance, this brand offers knitted separates
for a fashion loving customer. While the show was full of good spirit and
fun, what springs to mind is that after so many seasons many young London
brands that were the ones to watch seem to not cross the bridge into
becoming something more formidable. While luxury is not a niche every
company needs to aspire to, beautifully-made wearable clothes shouldn’t be
only seen on the Milan and Paris catwalks. There are enough London brands
that don’t seem to be able to shake their studenty handwriting.
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